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In March, 1886, the writer received a severe shock, as if by
a blow on the head from a well-directed mallet. He awoke, dazed and
stunned, to a sudden realization of the fact that the buffalo hide hunters
of the United States had practically finished their work. The bison
millions were not only "going", but gone! In the East
"the public" at large seemed to be totally ignorant of that
fact.
Coincident with this discovery, the writer--then for four years chief
taxidermist of the United States National Museum, and engrossed in work on
foreign mammals -- also awoke to the fact that the American people's own
official museum was absolutely destitute of good bison specimens of every
kind.
The case was so serious that the writer prepared and handed to
Professor Spencer F. Baird and Doctor G. Brown Goode a formal letter
setting forth the gruesome facts mentioned above. However, a belief
was expressed that there were, even then, somewhere in the West, some
unkilled bands of bison from which specimens might be taken before the
last of them were swept away.
Professor Baird at once sent for me and said:
"I am greatly shocked and disturbed by your letter. The
situation as you describe it is most serious. I dislike to be the
means of killing any of those last bison, but since it is now utterly
impossible to prevent their destruction, we simply must take a large
series of specimens, both for our own museum, and for other museums that
sooner or later surely will want good specimens of wild bison. You
must go West as soon as possible, find out definitely where specimens can
be obtained, and collect--if it is not too late--at least twenty skins of
males, females and young, ten or fifteen skeletons, and pick up about
fifty skulls. The Smithsonian will meet the expenses, and I will ask
the Secretary of War to help us all that he can, from the nearest Army
post.
To all of us the idea of killing a score or more of the last survivors
of the bison millions was exceedingly unpleasant; but we believed that our
refraining from collecting the specimens we imperatively needed would not
prolong the existence of the bison species by a single day.
Subsequent events proved the absolute correctness of that belief.
The three bison remnants then alive in Montana, Colorado and Texas all
were utterly exterminated by hide hunters, reckless cowboys and poachers,
by the end of 1887.
And furthermore...At that time there was not the slightest reason for
either the belief or the hope that the bison species could or would be
brought back and save to the world by breeding in captivity. Then,
in 1886, there were in all the world fewer than 800 bison alive, of which
about 550 were in the far north near Great Slave Lake, and known of by
only a few persons.
If the reader of 1925 now should feel doubtful about the ethical
propriety of our last buffalo hunt, and the killing that we had to do in
order that our National Museum might secure a few good wild skins out of
the wreck of the millions, let him feel assured that our task was by no
means a pleasant one, and at the same time remember that the author has
made some atonement to Bison americanus by the efforts that
he has put forth since 1889 for the saving and the restoration of that
species.

Never since Juan Cabeza de Vaca killed the first American bison on the
Texas plains did any man ever set forth bison hunting with a heart as
heavy, or as much oppressed by doubt, as that carried westward by the
writer in May, 1886. When our spring expedition to discover bison
was ready to start, Capt. C.E. Bendire, U.S.A. retired, came to my
laboratory and in his most aggressive military manner said:
"Well, I hear that you are going to Montana to hunt buffalo, and I
would like to bet you a hundred dollars that you don't find even one wild
buffalo." It was like a final shower bath of ice cold
water. I was too scared and apprehensive to make a suitable reply,
except that Doctor Merrill's information seemed to be good, and that I
would certainly do my best to get what I was going after, even if I had to
go to Canada.
In May, 1886, therefore, we set out on our voyage of discovery, greeted
at every step by the cheerful assurance - "The buffalo are all gone;
and you can't get any anywhere." Wondering whether we would
find our game in Montana, Texas, or the British Possessions, we decided to
try Montana first, and to the great astonishment of the natives, as well
as ourselves, were lucky enough, thanks to Doctor J.C. Merrill, to go
straight to a tract of country which, ever since 1883, had furnished safe
hiding, feeding and breeding grounds for about seventy-five head.
The people of Miles City and also the army officers at Fort Keogh were
all totally ignorant of the existence of those animals, and but for the
information that came to me from Stillwater, one hundred and eight-seven
miles farther west, I might never have heard of them at all. When we
reached Miles City on the 10th of May, the good people of that place were
so sure there were no buffalo anywhere in that part of Montana, they
almost talked us out of going any farther in that direction. When in
the very depths of uncertainty luck came to our rescue. We met a
big-hearted ranchman from the Little Dry--Mr. Henry R. Phillips of the
well-known LU-bar Ranch--and in a quiet but mightily convincing way, he
said:
"There certainly are a few buffalo in the bad-lands west of our
range, for one of our men killed a cow on Sand Creek on the 6th of this
month; and about thirty-five head have been seen. If you go up there
and hunt them, and stick to it, you're almost sure to get some in the
end."
That settled it. We begged Mr. Phillips to "accept the
assurance of our profound consideration," as the diplomats say, and
immediately pulled across the treacherous Yellowstone for the headwaters
of Little Dry Creek. Through the kindness of the Secretary of War we
were furnished by the quartermaster of Fort Keogh with field
transportation, camp equipage, and a small escort, and no matter how hard
Lieutenant Thompson may have thought we were going on a wild-goose chase,
he was an officer and a gentleman, and therefore could not say it, at
least in our hearing.

With our great ark of a six-mule wagon loaded to the wagon bows, we
toiled slowly northward through the bad-lands up the Sunday Creek
trail. We were thirty-five mils from Miles City when we saw our
first antelope, and forty when we came to the first bleaching bones of a
buffalo. The former had been exterminated up to that point, and the
buffalo bones all picked up and sold for fertilizer. While in camp
at the water hole at the Red Buttes, a benighted teamster was guided to us
by the light of the lantern that shone on the coyote I was skinning.
The wayfarer proved to be an ex-buffalo hunter, now a humble gatherer of
buffalo bones, operating along the Missouri River. He said that he
and his brother had several wagons in the business, and the year before
they shipped by the river steamers about two hundred tons of crushed bones
at eighteen dollars per ton.
From the Red Buttes onward you could see where the millions had
gone. This was once a famous buffalo range, and now the bleaching
skeletons lay scattered thickly all along the trail. Like ghastly
monuments of slaughter, these ugly excrescences stood out in bold relief
on the smooth, hard surface of the prairie, from the huge bull skeletons
lying close beside the wagon trail to those far back in the bad-lands,
where they were merely dark specks in the distance. They lay
precisely as they fell four years before, except that the flesh was no
longer upon them. The head stretched far forward, as if for its last
gasp, and the legs lay helplessly upon the turf with precisely the same
curves as when they moved for the last time. The powerful effect of
the strong, parching winds and the intense dry head of summer had
literally stripped the flesh from the bones, but the skeletons lay
precisely as they fell. The bones were still held together by a few
dried-up ligaments, but were bleached as white as snow. Sometimes we
found immense skeletons that were absolutely perfect, even to the tiny
carpal and tarsal bones, the size of a hazelnut. Of these dry
skeletons, we selected eight of the finest and largest.
Beyond the Red Buttes, we were seldom out of sight of bleaching
skeletons, and often forty or fifty were in sight at one time. The
skinners always left the heads of the bulls unskinned, and the thick hide
had dried down upon the skulls harder than the bone itself, holding the
tangled masses of the shaggy frontlet firmly in place until it bleached
brown in the sunshine and was finally worn away by wind and weather.
Many of these heads were so perfectly preserved, and with their thick
masses of wavy brown hair were so fresh looking, that the slaughter of the
millions was brought right down to the present, and seemed to have been
the work of yesterday. We could ensure the sight of the bones
reasonably well, for we expected it; but these great hairy heads made us
feel our loss most keenly. At first it was impossible to look at one
without a sight, and each group of skeletons brought back the old thought,
"what a pity!"
But there was no time to waste on sentiment. We wanted buffalo,
and like the small boy and the groundhog, we'd "got to get
him." Our six-mule team dragged its slow length from the
Yellowstone up the Sunday Creek trail to the top of the big divide between
the Yellowstone and the Missouri, and down the north side until we reached
Little Dry Creek. Twelve miles up the Creek we came to the LU-bar
Ranch, and eight miles beyond it we went into permanent camp, on the edge
of the supposed buffalo country. We sent our team back to the fort,
and my old friend George Hedley and I began to hunt buffalo.

In that immense country, so bare and inhospitable, so broken up into
bad-lands, and so beset by buttes of all sizes and shapes, it seemed like
an utterly hopeless undertaking. There were more than a thousand
square miles of country to hunt over, and it was merely claimed that there
were forty-five head of buffalo in it, somewhere, provided they had not
gone elsewhere. We were forced to admit that if we ever found our
game it would be as much by chance as by systematic hunting. Some of
the natives said we "might ride six months without ever seeing
buffalo, let alone killing any!"
I assert once more that I was born lucky instead of rich. If
you don't believe it now, in two minutes more you will.
Just two days after we went into permanent camp and began to hunt,
something happened that none of us had ever dared think could, by any
concatenation of circumstances, happen to us at all. We caught a
buffalo bull alive!
I would like to change the subject just here, and leave your
imagination struggling with a mighty (and mangy) old bison of the olden
time, with lassos whizzing through the perturbed atmosphere, horses
bracing back on their haunches, ropes singing like Aeolian harps, and
chunks of mother earth flying heavenward from the heated hoofs of the
terrible bull. But I can't do it. I cannot tell a lie - at
least now without being found out in it; so the truth must prevail.
It was only a poor little bull calf, less than a month old - a young thing
that couldn't leave his mother; but she was able to leave him, and
although it was by no means a cold day, he got left. His mother and
her friends coolly ran away and left him in the bad-lands to shift for
himself or die if he preferred. We found him in a barren hollow
between two high buttes, as lonesome looking a waif as ever was left to
the mercies of a cold world.
When he saw us riding toward him, he started to run, but he was weak,
and before he had gone a hundred yards we were up with him. We
sprang off and undertook to catch him in our arms, but he pluckily butted
first one of us and then another; then he butted the mule Private Moran
was riding, and was no generally lively that the cowboy who completed our
party, Irvin Boyd, had to throw his rope over him, and haul him in.
He struggled and kicked as much as he was able, but the poor little fellow
was so thin and so weak with hard running after his mother, that he was
easily tied.
To all of us he was a genuine curiosity. Instead of being dusty
brown, like most buffaloes over a year old, he was a perfect blonde.
His thick, wavy coat was of a uniform bright sandy color, and
"Sandy" be became from that moment. Although we had not
bargained for any live buffalo, the capture of such a prize called for our
best efforts in prolonging its life.
The first difficulty was to get the little fellow to camp without
injury. We tried to lead him, but he was so backward about coming
forward he would not lead at all. As for driving him, one could as
easily have driven a German chancellor. Losing patience at last,
George Hedley gathered the little bull up in his arms and started to carry
him to our camp, across hill and hollow, a mile and a half!
The pluckiness of this maneuver astonished the little buff. As
his carrier strode manfully through the sagebrush, surprise gave way to
passive admiration, and his struggles ceased. But the calf had the
best of it, and at the end of a hundred yards, George threw up his
contract, and called for his horse. With the blankets that were tied
behind our saddles, he fixed up a very ingenious pad in the seat of his
saddle, and laid the calf across it, with a pair of legs dangling on each
side. In this way, he and Private Moran carried the calf to camp,
while Boyd and I hastened on to look for the other buffaloes that had so
lately been in those hills.
The calf reached camp in good condition, and from that time on was
perfectly tame. It refused to drink condensed milk, so the next day
we sent it down to the ranch where Mr. Phillips's milch cow nourished it
one moment and tried to kick its brains out the next. It came very
near dying, and would have succeeded by for careful treatment.
Partly by good luck and partly by good management, we actually got the
little beast safely to Miles City on our return and took it on to
Washington, alive and in excellent health. With an abundant supply
of good food, over two gallons of good milk per day, it grew rapidly, and
soon became quite fat.
In order that the little buffalo might brow to be a very big one, we
sent him to a farm near Washington to fatten on fresh milk and blue
grass. He at voraciously and grew rapidly, but as has been the case
with many other distinguished foreigners, life in Washington proved too
rich for his blood.
About the middle of July he ate a great quantity of damp clover, and
before anyone found it out, he was dead. Of course we preserved his
skin with great care, and mounted it, so that, even though we lost our
live buffalo of great size (to be), we have for our group of mounted
specimens a red-haired calf. At the time of his death his age was
three months, the height at the shoulders was two feet nine inches, and
his weight was one hundred and twenty-one pounds.

Our field work in May and June of 1886 was really an Exploration for
Buffalo, in fact as well as in name, and as such was a complete
success. Besides the catching of the calf, we got two old bulls;
but, as we had feared, they had begun to shed their winter pelage, and consequently
their skins were unfit to mount. Their bodies and hindquarters were
as bare as a turtle's back, but their heads and shoulders were well
haired. After taking their heads and complete skeletons, we resolved
to hasten home at once and return in the fall to collect the specimens we
desired. Just as we were hauling in the skeletons, a cowboy came
galloping up to our wagon to say that there was a bunch of eight buffalo
within a mile and a half of us, and if we cared, we could easily kill some
of them. In declining this offer we begged the cowboys of that
country to leave those buffalo unkilled until fall, when we would return.
From what we saw and heard, we felt well assured the buffalo then known
to be on the high ground around the headwaters of the Big and Little Dry,
the two Porcupine Creeks, and Sand Creek would neither be exterminated nor
driven out of the country before September. Accordingly, the 24th of
that month saw me back in Miles City again, this time accompanied only by
W. Harvey Brown, a scientific senior of the University of Kansas.
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